bean

The bean is a tender, warm season vegetable that ranks second to tomato in popularity in home gardens.
Bush Beans stand erect without support. They yield well and require the least amount of work. Green bush beans were formerly called "string beans" because fiber developed along the seams of the pods. Plant breeders have reduced these fibers through selection and green beans are now referred to as "snap beans."
Pole Beans climb supports and are easily harvested.

Bush Bean Varieties
Blue Lake 274 (58 days to harvest; plump, tender pods; slow-developing seeds; resistant to bean mosaic)
Bush Kentucky Wonder (57 days; long, flattened pods)
Derby (57 days; 1990 AAS winner; slim, tender, prolific; excellent pods)
Pole Bean Varieties
Blue Lake (65 days to harvest; oval, straight, stringless, juicy and tender pods; resistant to bean mosaic)
Kentucky Blue (65 days; AAS Winner; round; 7 inch pods)
Kentucky Wonder (65 days; fine flavor, 9 inch pods in clusters)

Beans are sensitive to cold temperatures and frost. They should be planted after all danger of frost is past in the spring (May 15th in Chicagoland). If the soil has warmed before the average last-frost date, an early planting may be made a week to 10 days before this date. You can assure yourself a continuous supply of snap beans by planting every 2 to 4 weeks until early August.

Plant seeds of all varieties one inch deep. Plant seeds of bush beans 2 to 4 inches apart in rows at least 18 to 24 inches apart. Plant seeds of pole beans 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 30 to 36 inches apart; or in hills (four to six seeds per hill) 30 inches apart, with 30 inches between rows.

Seeds of most varieties tend to crack and germinate poorly if the soil's moisture content is too high. For this reason, never soak bean seed before planting. Instead water just after planting or plant right before a heavy rain.
Beans have shallow roots and frequent shallow cultivation and hoeing are necessary to control small weeds and grasses. Because bean plants have fairly weak root systems, deep, close cultivation injures the plant roots, delays harvest and reduces yields.

Harvest when the pods are firm, crisp and fully elongated, but before the seed within the pod has developed significantly. Pick beans after the dew is off the plants, and they are thoroughly dry. Picking beans from wet plants can spread bean bacterial blight, a disease that seriously damages the plants. Be careful not to break the stems or branches, which are brittle on most bean varieties. The bean plant continues to form new flowers and produces more beans if pods are continually removed before the seeds mature.

The bean mosaic diseases cause plants to turn a yellowish green and produce few or no pods. The leaves on infected plants are a mottled yellow and are usually irregularly shaped. The only satisfactory control for these diseases is to use mosaic-resistant bean varieties.
Bright yellow or brown spots on the leaves or water-soaked spots on the pods are signs of bacterial bean blight. Bacterial blight is best controlled by planting disease-free seed; avoiding contact with wet bean plants; and removing all bean debris from the garden.

Q. My beans appear healthy, but not many beans have formed. Why not?A. The blossoms drop and fail to form pods during periods of hot, dry winds.
Q. Is it a good practice to plant pole beans at the base of corn plant for double cropping?A. No. Neither crop can reach its maximum potential. Weed control becomes difficult and cornstalks offer weak support when the beans are maturing.
Q. Is it necessary to plant beans in a different area of the garden each year?A. Yes. Beans are subject to diseases that may carry over in the soil to reinfect the following bean crop.
Q. Will bean varieties cross in my garden?A. Because the flowers are largely self-pollinated, bean varieties usually do not cross. These crosses show up only when seed is saved from cross-pollinated flowers. In any event, you should obtain new seeds each year to avoid seedborne diseases.
Q. Can I use beans from my garden that have matured past the green, edible stage?A. Yes. Snap beans (pole or bush) may be harvested for shellouts and for dry beans; and lima beans may be harvested for butter beans.
Q. Why do some snap bean varieties have white seeds?A. Most bean varieties are developed for the canning and freezing industry. When varieties with colored seeds are used, the cooking water is slightly off-color. White seed is preferred because it does not discolor the cooking water.
Q. What are the fuzzy, bright yellow insects on my bean plants?A. These are larvae of the Mexican bean beetle. The adult resembles a large ladybug. The larvae do the most damage. They are generally not a serious problem, but they occasionally reach damaging numbers, particularly early in the season.

Legume is the prosaic name for beans. It covers all the podded plants. Fresh beans (as opposed to dried) vary in color, shape and length of pod. Fresh beans include green beans, Chinese long beans, tiny green beans (Haricot) and Fava beans, to name a few. This section will focus on bush beans and pole beans which are common garden varieties.
Harvest fresh beans before they become tough and stingy. If you can see the bulge of a developing bean through the green pod, the bean is over-mature and should be shelled (except pole beans). At this stage the pod is too tough to eat. Planting garden beans in two week intervals helps to eliminate having all the beans ready for harvest at the same time.
Fresh pole beans and bush beans can be stored, unwashed in plastic bags in the vegetable crisper of the refrigerator for up to 3 days. Do not wash them before storing. Wet beans will develop black spots and decay quickly. Wash beans just before preparation.

Snap beans, string beans, and pole beans are the immature pod and beans of dried legumes. All of these will mature to produce fat seeds and tough inedible pods. The nutritional profile of mature dried beans is very different from that of green beans. Green beans are a good source of carbohydrates. They are a moderate source of protein, dietary fiber, Vitamin C and beta carotene. The beta carotene is converted to vitamin A in the body. Green beans also contain small amounts of calcium and other trace nutrients.
Nutrition Facts (1/2 cup fresh cooked fresh green beans)
Calories 15Dietary fiber 1.6 gramsProtein 1 gram Carbohydrates 3.5 mg Vitamin A 340 IU Vitamin C 7.5 mg Folic Acid 21 mg Calcium 31.5 mg Iron .4 mg Potassium 94.5 mg


Tiny immature green beans from any variety are delicious served raw in fresh salads. They are tender and mildly flavored. Mature green beans need to be cooked or blanched before eating. Only the stem end needs to be removed. Wash beans under cold running water and drain. Green beans retain color and nutritional value best if they are cooked whole. Cooking time should always be brief.

Green beans can be frozen, dried or canned. Immature beans retain more color and undergo less texture and flavor loss during freezing. All vegetables must be blanched before freezing. Unblanched vegetables quickly become tough and suffer huge nutrient and color loss. Vegetables naturally contain an active enzyme that causes deterioration of plant cells, even during freezing. Blanching before freezing retards the enzyme activity.
Freezing does not improve the quality of any vegetable. Freezing actually can magnify undesirable characteristics. For instance, woodiness in stalks become more noticeable upon thawing. Select vegetables grown under favorable conditions and prepare for freezing as soon after picking as possible. Vegetables at peak quality for eating will produce best results in the freezer.
In a blanching pot or large pot with a tight fitting lid, bring 5 quarts of water to a rolling boil.
Meanwhile, wash beans, trim stem ends and cut into1-inch pieces or leave whole.
Blanch no more than one pound at a time. Add beans to boiling water and immediately cover with a tight fitting lid.
Start timing immediately and blanch for four minutes.
Prepare an ice water bath in a large 5-quart container or the sink.
Remove beans from water with slotted a spoon or blanching basket.
Emerge in the ice water bath for five minutes or until cooled. If you do not have ice, use several changes of cold water or running cold water. Remove and drain.
Pack cold beans in zip-closure freezer bags or freezer containers. Squeeze out as much air as possible before sealing bags.
Label and date each container or bag. Immediately place in the freezer, allowing an inch of space around each container until it is frozen. Freeze for up to one year at 0 degrees F. or below.
Blanching water can be used over and over again. Add more water if necessary. Remember to always bring water back to a rolling boil before blanching more vegetables.

Herbs and spices that compliment green beans include dill, mint, basil, sage, thyme, summer savory, garlic, onions and dry mustard.
Steamed Green Beans with Lemony Vinaigrette
Lemony Vinaigrette
1 tablespoon fresh parsley, minced
3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
2 tablespoons fat-free yogurt
1 tablespoon chives or green onion with green top, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon each, salt and black pepper
1/2 cup canola oil or safflower oil
In a small bowl combine parsley, lemon juice, yogurt, and chives. Set bowl on a wet towel to avoid slippage. Add oil in a steady stream, whisking constantly until vinaigrette is blended. Chill.
Steamed Green Beans
1 pound fresh green beans, leave whole
1/2 cup red pepper, cut into julienne strips
Wash green beans and remove the stem end only, leave whole. Steam or blanch green beans for 3 minutes. Toss with julienne red pepper. Toss green beans and red peppers with enough vinaigrette to coat vegetables, about 1/3 cup. Serve warm. Leftover vinaigrette can be used as a salad dressing. Store in the refrigerator for up to one week.
Green Beans with Tomatoes
1-1/2 pounds fresh green beans
1 large ripe tomato, cored and chopped
1/2 cup onion, chopped
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and cut into julienne strips
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons olive oil
5 pods of okra (optional) or one white potato cubed
salt and pepper to taste
Wash green beans and trim stem end, set aside. Wash core and chop tomato, no need to remove skin. Heat olive oil in a nonstick pan. Add onions and saute for one minute Add garlic and tomatoes, continue to cook for one minute. Add green beans, toss, add okra or potato, season with salt and pepper. Add in a cup of water, cover quickly and simmer for 10 minutes or until potato is tender. Check potato by pricking with a fork. Serve hot. Makes 6 servings.

Plant Care Guides

Air Purifying Houseplants Aloe Vera Plants Amazon Alocasia, Elephant's Ear Anthuriums Areca Palms Bird of Paradise Boston Fern Bromeliads Chinese Evergreens Chinese Fan Palms Christmas Cactus Corn Plant Croton Plants Dieffenbachia (Dumb Cane) Easy To Grow Houseplants Fiddle Leaf Fig Flame Violet Goldfish Plant Hawaiian Ti Heart-Leaf Philodendron Importance of Houseplant Care Jade Plants Kentia Palm Lady Palm Lipstick Plants Madagascar Dragon Tree Majesty Palm Miniature Rose Norfolk Island Pine Orchids Peace Lily Persian Violet Phoenix Palms Plant Lighting Guide Plant Watering Guide Poinsettias Poisonous Houseplants Polka Dot Plants Ponytail Palms Prayer Plants Rubber Plants Sago Palms Scheffleras Snake Plants Spider Plants Split Leafed Philodendron Staghorn FernTop Bathroom Plants Warneckei White Cloud Ficus Yucca Zebra Plants Site Map Home

Corn Plant or Corn Dracaena

Common Name: Corn Plant or Corn DracaenaScientific Name: Dracaena MassangeanaLighting: LowWatering: Moderate
The Corn plant require very little care. The Corn plant has long leaves stemming from a wooden cane like stalk. The variegated leaves resemble corn foliage thus the name. The foliage using contains a yellow or crème center with dark green borders.
The Corn plant enjoys low light, making it perfect for corners and hallways. The Corn plant requires moderate watering. Water thoroughly once every 7 - 10 days or when the soil is dry to touch down 1 inch into the soil. The roots of the Corn plant are located close to the canes. It is also a very shallow root system, therefore when watering, place the water near the base of each cane to be sure the roots are able to absorb the water. If the leaves begin to drop or yellow, try watering the plant less frequently. You could be over watering it.
The Corn plant tends to be resistant to many of the pests that other houseplants encounter. If your Corn plant does become infected with bugs or mites, spraying a soapy mixture of water and dish soap over the plant should take care of the problem.
This houseplant is one of many poisonous houseplants. To be safe, keep it away from pets and children.

Corn plant

(Dracaena fragrans `Massangeana')Contact: Diane Relf, Extension Specialist, Environmental Horticulture
August 1996

DESCRIPTION:
Long, glossy, green leaves 16"- 36" long, and up to 4" wide are arched, with wide yellow stripe at midrib.
FOLIAGE COLORS:
Green and Yellow
CONTAINER:
Large container, large planter.
LIGHT:
Low to medium. Tolerates artificial or existing room light, near a north, east, or west window, and up to 1000 footcandles.
WATER:
Normal to frequent. Water thoroughly, keep soil moist. Can let soil dry to the touch to a soil depth of 1/2".
TEMPERATURE:
Cool, medium, warm. Nights 10 degrees cooler than days.
HUMIDITY:
Average
FERTILIZER:
Every 3 - 4 months. Don't overfertilize.
SOIL MIX:
1 part sterilized garden loam, 1 part clean coarse sand or Perlite, and 1/2 to 1 part sphagnum peat moss.
PROPOGATION:
Basal shoots, tip cuttings
SELECTION GUIDE:
Select sturdy, shapely, healthy plant free from insect and disease damage. New leaf growth is desirable. Avoid those with yellow or brown leaf margins, wilted or water soaked leaves.
CARE:
Easy. Tolerates wide range of conditions. Good for beginners.
OTHER CULTIVARS:
`Lindenii' - marginal stripes of creamy-white; `Rothiana' - leathery leaves, margins are whitish.
PROBLEMS:
Scale insects: Scrape off. Isolate. If severe, dispose of plant.Fluoride injury-tip burn: Test water for fluoride content. Use fluoride-free water.Fertilizer burn: Leach pot with water 3 times between fertilizer applications.
COMMENTS:
One of the best plants for dark conditions.
This material was developed by Carol Ness as part of the Interactive Design and Development Project funded by the Kellogg Foundation. Mary Miller, Project Director. Diane Relf, Content Specialist, Horticulture. Copyright 1989 by VCE.
Visit Virginia Cooperative Extension

Palm Tree Species

Palm Tree Species
Bismarck Palm Bismarckia nobilisCabbage Palm Sabal palmetto Canary Island Date Palm Phoenix canariensis Carpentaria Palm Carpentaria acuminata Chinese Fan Palm Livistona chinensis Christmas Palm Veitchia merrilli Fishtail Palm Caryota spp. Key Thatch Palm Thrinax morrisii Macarthur Palm Ptychosperma macarthurii Paurotis Palm Acoelorrhaphe wrightii Pindo Palm (Jelly Palm) Butia capitata Pygmy Date Palm Phoenix roebelenii Queen Palm Syagrus romanzoffiana Royal Palm Roystonea spp.Senegal Date Palm Phoenix reclinataSentry Palm Howea forsteriana Washington Palm Washingtonia robusta Windmill Palm Trachycarpus fortunei Yellow Butterfly Palm Chrysalidocarpus lutescens

Palm Tree Care a step-by-step guide

Introduction
Homeowners are presented with unique challenges when caring for palm trees. To maintain healthy and prosperous palms, it is essential to understand these challenges and to obtain the tools necessary to overcome them.
Common Problems With Palm Trees
The most important factor for a healthy palm tree is good soil. The type of soil determines how much nutrients and water the plant receives. As a homeowner, the best contribution you can make to your palm tree's soil is the addition of beneficial mycorrhizal fungi.
Another vital component of palm tree care is proper fertilization. Palm trees require specially formulated fertilizers that answer to very specific conditions.
For other information, click on a topic on the left.

Choosing a Palm Tree
In general, four factors should be considered when choosing a palm tree for your property. The first factor is the size of the tree at maturity. Remember that that little palm for sale at a local nursery might reach a height of 50 feet or more as an adult tree overpowering the rest of your property, interfering with overhead lines and underground conduits and perhaps, threatening buildings if the tree is planted too nearby. Make sure that the size of your palm at maturity is in keeping with your needs and overall landscape design.The second factor is temperature . Most types of palm tree will not tolerate freezing weather and even a short bout of frost may weaken a tree and leave it vulnerable to insects and disease. In some areas of Arizona or California, for example, the climate is simply too severe for successful palm growth. Check with your local nursery or tree expert for advice if you're unsure about growing conditions in your area.The fourth factor is sunlight . Not all varieties of palm tree are equally sun tolerant. Some varieties, in fact, prefer shady conditions to full exposure. Keep this in mind when thinking of the kind of palm tree that would be best for you.The final factor is water . While palm trees have long been associated with desert conditions, in the wild, they are only found near abundant and continuous supplies of water. If you are thinking about planting a palm tree on your property, make sure that the tree will receive adequate water and be prepared to water a newly transplanted tree frequently while it acclimatizes.

All About Mangoes: How to Choose, Cut, and Eat a Mango

When choosing a mango, pick one that is plump and heavy for its size. Most importantly, the mango should be fragrant when held near your nose. If you'll be using the mango right away, you will want to find a ripe one. Mangos are ripe when easily indented with your thumb. (Avoid mangos that are so ripe they feel mushy.)
Choose a Ripe Mango.
Make a Slice Down One Side of the Mango.
Now Make a Slice on the Other Side of the Stone.
Choose One of the Fleshy Sections and Score it With a Serrated Knife.
Turn the Section of Mango and Score it in the Other Direction.
Cut Away the Peel from Around the Stone
Cut the remaining fruit around the stone.
Spoon Out the Cubed Flesh.
Do the Same with the Remaining Section.
Eat the Mango Right Away, or Use it to Make Delicious Thai Desserts.
Previous Next >>
Savory Mango Recipes
Thai Mango Chicken RecipeBBQ Halibut with Fresh Mango Salsa RecipeSuper-Easy Mango Salsa Recipe!
Make a Thai Salad using Fresh Mango!
Thai Green Mango Salad RecipeFresh Thai Fruit Salad (Served in a Pineapple)
Create an Exotic Thai Dessert using Fresh Mango!
Easy Tapioca Pudding with Mango NectarMango Sticky-Sweet Rice DessertCoconut Cake with Mango Glaze
Related Articles
All About Mangoes: How to Choose, Cut, and Eat a MangoMango - How to Choose, Cut, and Eat a MangoAsian Fruit - How to Choose, Storage and Preparation Ti...Mango Salsa Recipe - How to Make Mango Salsa Video - Ab...Peel and Slice a Mango - Cooking Instructions - Instruc...